It your boat stove causing problems - There
are no default answers to a boat stove problem. Each situation is different. The
fire in the stove is a controlled conflagration - the more air it gets
the faster and hotter it will burn.
Restricting
the air supply damps down the rate of burning and cuts back on the
amount of available heat. But there is a point where the rate of burning
is insufficient to keep the fire in. The fire needs a certain amount of
internal heat to maintain combustion. Starve the fire of air and it
will go out.
There
are lots of issues to understand. The first is with the type of fuel
being used. The second is the construction of the stove. The third is
how you control the heat and how much heat you want. The fourth is how
the heat is used.
I
will stress one point - you must get a good pair of smoke and CO
detectors fitted at each end of the boat. Test them on the first day of
the month.
1)
Different fuels need different amounts of air to burn efficiently.
Mixing different types of fuel can create additional problems. The
efficiency of the fire can be judged by the flame colour. The more
yellow and floppy the flame, the more air is required for complete
combustion. Adjustment of the air flow below the grate should be done in
tiny amounts.
2)
Some stoves only take air from below the grate and others have an
airwash which allows air to enter the fire above the grate. This is
useful as the air will not pass through the coals, but will help to burn all the part burnt gasses entering the flue. Additional air fed to the flames improves the combustion
efficiency and reduces internal sooting.
READ the Stove operating manual
so you know what controls are available - where they are located and
how to adjust them. If you don't have a manual - download one from the
internet.
3)
There are other controls such as a damper which maybe a fixed item and
located in the top of the fire. The damper maybe in the flue pipe and
adjustable. Hot air rises and heat is given off by the body of the stove
as well as the flue pipe. As the air/gasses in the flue cools it
becomes heavier. You can get a situation where the top of the flue is
quite cold. A double skinned chimney can help in such situations
especially if the air gap is filled with a fireproof insulation
material.
3a)
Down drafts can create unpredictable situations within the fire. A
chimney cowl especially one that turns in the wind can help to reduce
such situations. As soot and other products of combustion build up
inside the flue they also act as a constrictor and as an insulator
making the flue pipe less efficient at passing heat from the hot flue
gasses into the boat. Clean the flue every couple of months and clean
above the damper once a week. The damper is a restriction which can
block well before other parts of the flue.
3b)
Under and over ventilation. To much ventilation will take away heat.
Not enough ventilation can cause condensation problems. The spread of
heat in open plan boats will perform differently to boats with internal
walls. Err on the side of safety and never block the bats ventilation
system.
3c)
The roof area will always be warmer than the floor area. When you are
sitting down the majority of warm air is above your head. You might want
to consider a small low speed fan to circulate the air more. Check the
difference with a thermometer - you might just get a surprise at the
temperature gradient.
4)
If you have a back boiler, the temperature inside the fire box can be
even more difficult to control. Especially when there are thermostats
controlling part of the flow of water. Our bedroom bathroom radiators
have thermostats which we use to provide comfortable heat in the
different areas of the boat. Always have one radiator without any
restrictions as a safeguard. Our calorifier is also unrestricted. Fans
on top of fires do work - however, you may not notice the movement of
air. To prove the point, get a joss stick and light it, next to the fire
then go to the far end of the boat. You will be surprised how soon the
scent arrives.
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